Planting bulbs indoors

[likeaneagle]

I have had 3 months of flowering bulbs...it so cherry and fun to watch these grow and open during dreary winter days.

I also have grown bulbs in water and a bed of rocks. Narcicuss is great and pretty. I also planted 2 Amarylus bulbs

I think its called "Hydro Planting"...RHino...help!!

If anyone else has ideas about blooming indoors, I would love to hear you ideas.

The opportunity of having a whole glorious season of flowering daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths indoors during winter is a reality. A bright floral display and fragrant aroma is always welcome when snow is on the ground and bundling up to keep warm outside is a must. Little (minor) bulbs, such as snowdrops, scilla, muscari, chionodoxa, and crocus force equally well as the large (major) bulbs, daffodils, tulips, and hyacinth. Both the major and minor bulbs are handled in the same way, although the forcing period may vary slightly. Some cultivars (early cultivars and those that do not grow too tall) are better suited for forcing than others. Catalogs will usually identify forcing varieties.

The term forcing refers to inducing a plant to produce its shoot, leaf, and flower ahead of its natural schedule and out of its natural environment. To force hardy bulbs you need to mimic and compress the process the plant would undergo outdoors in the garden. The type of pot (plastic versus clay) is a personal preference. Plastic pots do not dry out as rapidly as clay, are easier to clean and lighter in weight, as well as less expensive. Clay pots have aesthetic qualities in and of themselves and don’t necessarily need a basket or covering to be attractive. Bulbs will grow equally well in either. The pots should be scrubbed clean before use and clay pots soaked for several hours to saturate pores.

When buying bulbs for forcing, always choose first-rate, top-size varieties. Mail-order bulbs by August or earlier to ensure adequate time to receive the bulbs by the first part of October. If you buy from the local garden center, scrutinize them the way you would produce at the grocery store; don’t buy bulbs that are soft or sprouting. High-quality bulbs are necessary because the bulb contains the food required to produce a flowering plant.

Since bulbs need moisture and perfect drainage, a mixture of equal parts peat moss, potting soil, sand and vermiculite or perlite is best. Mix thoroughly and moisten with enough water to a damp consistency. If you anticipate planting bulbs outdoors after forcing, add 1 teaspoon of 5–10–5 dry fertilizer to every quart of soil mix to give the bulbs an extra boost after flowering. Hyacinths, crocus, and narcissi can be grown in pebbles and water—with no additional nutrients, however, they are usually completely exhausted and should be disposed of after blooming.

The next step in planting is to place a few pieces of broken crockery over the drainage holes, to prevent the soil from running out initially and clogging later. Fill your pot half-full of soil mix, then adjust the soil level until the tops of the bulbs reach the rim of the container.

Plant bulbs with the pointed ends up, as close together as possible, without letting them touch. Tulip and other bulbs with a flat side should be planted with the flat side facing the edge of the container. This will allow the first leaves to form a border around the edge of the pot.

Add enough soil mix to fill the pot, and water the bulbs thoroughly from the top or immerse in a tub of water - this will settle the soil around the bulbs. Label each pot with the name of the cultivar, date of planting and date to bring out of cold storage.

Daffodils, narcissi, crocus, muscari and other bulbs look great in groups of three, five, or more. Hyacinths look quite handsome when planted singly, or in groups. Dense plantings are recommended for minor bulbs.

After planting, place the pots in a cool, dark place, such as a cellar or refrigerator to initiate root and shoot growth. Other suitable environments include an insulated cold frame, under a porch, or an unheated garage. Cold storage is a critical step in the forcing process. Ideally, temperatures should be 35° to 48°F. If necessary, set boxes, pots or black garbage bags over your potted bulbs to keep them dark during the cooling period. The medium should be kept moist through the rooting and cooling period. After five or six weeks, the roots should emerge out of the bottom of the containers of the large hardy bulbs.

Forcing will take about 12 weeks for the early blooming bulbs (snowdrop, crocus, daffodil) and about 16 weeks for the tulips. Longer cold storage will result in taller flowers, while storage time shorter than 13 weeks will result in smaller plants and sometimes aborted flowers. A good rule of thumb: when you see the shoots 2 to 3 inches above the soil and fine white roots emerging from the drainage holes, it’s time to bring the pots out of cold storage. At this stage of development, move the bulbs to a cool location, such as an unheated entryway or closed off back bedroom, where the temperatures are in the ’50s. Bulbs should be placed in indirect lighting and should not be allowed to dry out.

Feed weekly with a half-strength solution of houseplant fertilizer. Turning the pots every day or so keeps the flower stems straight and strong. In a week or two, the stems will elongate and the buds will become plump. When the foliage and buds are well developed, move the pots to a bright, sunny window in the house, where temperatures are near 65°F. Once the flowers begin to open, take the plants out of direct sunlight to prolong the bloom.

[rhino]

Forcing plants just seems so wrong, too cult like to trick them into doing what you want. ... what was that book? "The Secret Life of Plants" lol

But really, I just know what google tells me. Bulbs are cool cuz they come up early and on their own. I've never grown any indoors. It would be neat to have some coming up through the winter.

[likeaneagle]

LOL, forced Auxano...growth from within..Jokin..hehe

[coolchef1248 @adelphia.net]

i used to force bulbs all the time! tulps any time of year

great fun

i always used the fridge to make them sleep for a few months

my dad's birthday was in early nov.

it was tradition that i buy him amyrillis{SP} they would always be in full bloom during the christmass season

he loved to watch them grow

i used to also force { i know i am going to spell this wrong} frosysthia

very easy just cut the limbs when the leaves start to buldge and soak the in the bath tub over night and put them in a vase and in a few days ya got them

same thing with wimp willows

peony can be cut be for they bloom wraped and put in the freezer

taken out when you want them and they will burst into bloom

but not all the time

it is fun

who says you can't fool mother nature l

[likeaneagle]

Hey CC

I am definitely going to try Forsynthia's and Tulips.

I have used shallow pans for the Narcicuss and Crocus.

Also, I think I will try a tall vase for the FOrsynthia's. They will need support cause of thier length.

I wonder if there other other berry types that can be hydro planted?

THanks for more idea's.

[likeaneagle]

RHino- you need a break from the boards..this stuff is warping your brain..heehaa

Edited March 30, 2006 by likeaneagle

[coolchef1248 @adelphia.net]

i just read my post

i meant to say wimp willows can be forced too

wow they won't let me say wimp willow! :o :unsure:

can i say kitty willow :unsure:

[dmiller]

You just did say *wimp willows*.